Dolcezza Gelato

by Nick on October 13, 2010

Dolcezza is my favorite gelato this side of the Atlantic. When I first discovered its existence though, I was seriously annoyed.

The necessary back story…

I’ve taken several month-long trips to Italy over the years and fallen in love with many aspects of the country: the kindness and energy of the people, the beautiful places, the pace of life, the food,the wine, on and on the list goes. Each day in Italy gave me awesome experiences with one or more of these things, but there was always one constant and utterly dependable source of joy I would seek out at least once each day.

Gelato in Florence, Italy

Gelato. If you’ve never had a cold, refreshing, unbelievably flavorful cup of the real deal from Italy (preferably after having walked miles around a beautiful Italian city) then sadly you really don’t have a clue how good gelato is. The stuff that gets labeled gelato here in the US normally has as much in common with true Italian gelato as a Lean Cuisine turkey dinner has with mom’s Thanksgiving meal. Crazily enough, a lot of people still really like it compared to normal ice cream. That should give you an idea of how good the real stuff is.

During my trips to Italy I indulged my love for gelato several times a day, knowing that once I got back home the experience would once again be years and an ocean away. After returning from my first post college trip to Italy, being a budding entrepreneur I decided I had to seriously consider bringing good gelato to the states. My family owns a storefront on M Street in Georgetown, DC with a huge amount of foot traffic flowing past the doors every day, and our current tenant was less than stellar. The idea formed in my head to open America’s best gelateria in the building my Italian family has owned since the early 1900′s.

I worked out the financial model for the business and it looked totally doable and likely to be very profitable. Now, I needed a name. Something good. Something Italian. Something relevant to gelato. After racking my brain (and my Italian dictionary) for weeks I settled on the perfect name: “Dolcezza”. It means “sweetness” in Italian, sounds cool, and even has two z’s in it like my last name. Of course, I’d want to secure the trademark. So I did a quick Google search to see if there was anything related to ice cream or gelato called Dolcezza in the US, figuring it was a long shot but maybe there’d be something in California or New York City. First Google result: a gelato place in the United States. In DC? In Georgetown?! What were the odds? To add insult to injury it was a place that had just changed their name from “Isee Icy” — probably they were selling “Italian Ice”. Ugh. Taking my good name and almost certainly using it to serve an absolute travesty that they were branding as gelato, and then making it look pretty by paying a top notch photographer to do their site for them. I was seriously annoyed.

Photo from Dolcezza's Website

I figured I should make my way down there and check the place out — hopefully to gauge how long before they went out of business. Maybe they’d even sell me the name?

I walk in — the place is small but nice. The gelato looks pretty, but I’ve learned from prior US experience that means nothing. The flavors include the classics of course, but some of these names are strange… orange honey cardamom? lemon opal basil? white peach prosecco? Okay, this guy is not using mass-produced gelato mix like everyone else I’ve encountered. I try the gelato. Three flavors: my favorite combination — dark chocolate and banana, and one of the weird ones — orange honey cardamom.

Crap. It’s good. Wow.. it’s really good. Okay, this would be really good gelato in Italy.

My plans for DC gelato domination died as I finished that cup. I could never hope to compete with something this good that was so close to our storefront. The pain of that was dulled by the realization that I’d found amazing gelato, it was close to me, and I didn’t have to start a company and learn the mystical art of gelato making to get it. I had to meet the man responsible for this, and pay homage.

A few days later I did meet the owner, Robb Duncan. I gained an instant respect for his passion for creating interesting and delicious new flavors every day, from scratch, out of high quality ingredients, using state-of-the-art Italian Carpigiani gelato machines. I learned about his commitment to finding the best local farmers and getting his milk and cream from them and rotating his flavor selections to include sorbettos made out of fruits that are in season and at the height of their ripeness. He filled me in on his love for good coffee and let me try the best espresso I’d had since coming back from Italy. He even showed me some freshly made churros filled with dulce de leche and little cookies called “aflajores” from his wife Violeta’s home country of Argentina.

Dolcezza Gelato & Cappuccino

That was more than five years ago. Since then I’ve had the pleasure of visiting the shop at least once a week, and I’ve gotten to know many of the special flavors that each season brings ( fall/winter’s Apple Cider Clove and Crookneck Pumpkin… spring’s Strawberry Tarragon, Strawberries and Cream and Blackberry Cream… summer’s White Peach Prosecco, Toigo Yellow Nectarine and Red Watermelon Vodka Mint) and I’m still surprised by new ones (like this summer’s Cucumber Tarragon Gin – much better than it sounds – really refreshing actually). There are the classic non-seasonal flavors of course: the best Dulce de Leche you could ever imagine, dark and rich Valhrona Chocolate Amargo, spicy Mexican Chocolate, delicious Tiramisu, and totally decadent Peanut Butter Chocolate. The coffee is still the best I’ve found in the DC area. The pastries are delicious. The staff are incredibly friendly and put together an amazing cappuccino.

Over the years their business has been successful, and they’ve grown by adding two more locations (Bethesda Row and Dupont Circle). They’ve done it gracefully though, never over-extending their ability to find the best ingredients in season for their gelato or excellent staff to serve their customers. They’re doing an amazing thing down there and I take everyone that I can to experience it. If you find yourself in the DC area and want to try some truly great gelato, you have to pay them a visit. You won’t regret it.

[Side note: A close second to Dolcezza for quality gelato in the US is Capogir0 Gelato in Philadelphia. They have several locations throughout the city and their gelato is also freshly made out of good local ingredients and served by people who know and love what they're doing. I always make it a point to stop in when I'm in Philadelphia.]

Know any other amazing gelato places in the US? I’m always up for making a gelato stop when traveling!

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Sous Vide for the Bachelor

by Nick on October 12, 2010

Those of you that know me well, know that I really have a thing for good food. I love to cook great meals and I love going out to awesome restaurants. However, being a single guy I rarely get the opportunity to cook good meals for myself. The problem is, I can either cook a normal sized meal (4 to 5 peoples’ worth) and then eat leftovers for a week (and get sick of them in two days) or I can spend almost as much time putting together a meal big enough for just me — which amounts to a huge waste of time if I do this several times a week. So, the invariable conclusion to this dilemma is that I go out to eat. A lot. Not only is that normally unhealthy, it’s also pretty freaking expensive ($50 a day = $1,500 a month just to eat). I had tried several different things to get myself out of the habit of eating out almost every night — premade frozen meals (bleh), cooking decent sized batches of something like plain pasta that I can then dress-up in different ways (a better option, but gets very repetitive), eating way too many sandwiches, etc. and found them all unexciting and never stuck with them for long.

I’d pretty much resigned myself to the fact that there was no good solution until I heard about THIS:

Polyscience Sous Vide Professional Immersion Circulator

What is that, you ask? It’s called an immersion circulator, and it’s used in a new style of cooking called Sous Vide (which means “under vacuum” in French). It’s basically a mix between a kitchen appliance and a piece of high end lab equipment, and it appeals to both the techie and the foodie in me at the same time. Needless to say, I ended up buying one, along with the required vacuum sealer and some bags. That’s an expensive purchase (just over $1,000) but I think it will pay for itself fairly quickly, because it just might solve my “always eating out because cooking for myself is inefficient” problem. Let me explain.

First, a bit about Sous Vide. The magic behind the curtain is the idea that nearly every food has a perfect “doneness” temperature. Normally, this is the minimum temperature required for the food to be safe to eat. In order to get all of the food (a chicken breast, for example) to at least the safe / perfect temperature, traditional cooking methods require you overcook most of the food. In order to get the center of the chicken breast to 147, the outside might have to get up to 200+ using a grill, for instance, which results in most of the meat being overcooked. Sous Vide cooking addresses this problem by creating a circulating water bath (normally in a cheap plastic tub) at exactly the perfect temperature and using this to cook vacuum sealed portions of food (with salt, spices, butter, etc. added in the bag as well) for specific amounts of time (which are often longer than it would take using traditional methods, but not terribly long — a half-hour to 45 minutes for a chicken breast for example). Because the water is held at exactly the perfect temperature, it’s impossible for any of the food to rise above that temperature, meaning that you get a uniform doneness throughout with no overcooked spots.

Among many other things, this means that you can get perfectly medium rare steak/lamb, the most amazing soft boiled eggs ever, extremely tender and flavorful chicken, and fish that flake apart section by section while staying perfectly tender. To top it all off, because all of the juices are sealed in the bag the flavor is much more intense and less seasoning (including salt) is needed. Once the required cooking time has been reached you simply pull the bags out,  open them up, give the outside of the meat a good sear in a really hot pan or griddle (if you want a crust on the outside), and serve. Sous Vide isn’t just for meats either – vegetables and fruits turn out amazing as well, and you don’t need to load them up with a ton of butter for flavor either, since all the aromas stay in the bag.

My first batch of vegetables (carrots, sugar snap peas, asparagus, beets, butter nut squash) and some peaches ready to take their hot bath:

Vegetables and Peaches Ready for Sous Vide

So, back to my problem… My thought was that since I’d be able to cook multiple things in different bags, and if I left them in long enough they become pasteurized, I could prepare a bunch of really good food using the immersion circulator and then throw the bags in an ice bath to cool them down, and keep them in my fridge to be reheated (which I could do by using hot water rather than a microwave) whenever I wanted them. This weekend I bought the equipment, headed to Costco and bought lots of good meat and vegetables, and spent an evening working the vacuum sealer, the immersion circulator, and a tub full of ice. I now have probably a month’s worth of amazing tasting, healthy, and quick to prepare food in the fridge! I’ve already tried some butternut squash, peaches, lemon juice/pepper chicken, and a ribeye steak – they were all fantastic. So, it looks like I’ve found a good solution to my problem — every other week or so, I’ll spend an evening making a nice mix of food, and chilling it to eat over the next few weeks. If you’re in a similar position (or if you think it just sounds awesome) I suggest you look into whether this might make sense for you too.

A few words of caution – you really need to educate yourself on food safety. Because you’re working with low temperature cooking here, pasteurization times (factoring in the thickness of the food inside the bag) for each specific item need to be researched and followed strictly. If you’re going to refrigerate food and use it later, you need to be aware that even though you may have killed off all of the normal bacteria during pasteurization, there are nasty little things called Clostridium botulinum bacterial spores that can survive the heat of the pasteurization process, and can re-activate upon cooling. Oh yeah, they can also survive without oxygen, so that baggy isn’t going to protect you. Did I mention they produce a deadly neurotoxin that paralyzes your muscles (including eventually your heart) if given the right conditions for growth?

So please, if you’re going to invest $1,000 in the equipment, invest some time in learning how to keep from killing yourself or your friends. This is a great guide, and the entire first section is on food safety. A high level, incomplete summary: you need to make sure you cook the food at the right temperature for long enough to pasteurize it (kill almost all of the normal bacteria), then immediately put it in an ice bath (and keep it there for 30 minutes or more) to drop the internal temperature to  almost 32 degrees Fahrenheit rapidly (you want it in the “danger zone” for as short a time as possible), and then store it in a place where you can keep it consistently below 38 degrees Fahrenheit (most refrigerators can do this, but only if they’re not opening and closing constantly), and then eat or discard the food within 4 weeks, assuming you’ve followed all of the rules. Also, don’t reheat and then re-chill food, as this puts the food into the danger zone again.

NOTE: I am not an expert, and this is not actual advice on food safety – just a high level view. If you’re going to do any of this yourself, you should do your own research and follow the advice of the experts and governmental agencies that deal with these issues.

To end on a positive note, many high end restaurants have been using Sous Vide cooking techniques (including cooling and reheating the food for later use) for many years now. Williams Sonoma sells the equipment, and I doubt they’d be selling something they expect to kill their customers – bad for business, that. It is definitely possible to do safely if you educate yourself, pay attention  and follow the rules while dealing with the food. It’s a great way to have high quality, healthy, tasty food with prep times around 10 minutes. I’m loving it so far.

Happy cooking!

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New site layout – work in progress…

August 17, 2010

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